Видео

Glad to hear it!

Thank you!!

Awesome!!

Obrigado! ☺️

Aside from the wastebasket liners, I mean.. Like perhaps a wax paper?

@@soulkalastudio Your soap will saponify the wax in the wax paper and you will have to cut it off your soap. If you don't mind the extra labor of cutting it all off your soap you could use it. No guarantee it won't leak, so take precautions there.

@@SoapAuthority I see, thanks for letting me know. There's no freezer paper here in my country, closest thing would be a wax paper which i dont think id use as per your advice. I think I'm better off with the waste basket liners. thanks.

@@soulkalastudio The waste basket liners I use are HDPE plastic. They don't stick to the soap at all.

Great question! You could tape the freezer paper together on the backside with some overlap. As long as you don't pour your soap too thin, it should be OK with little to no leakage. Maybe put an old towel underneath to make sure nothing gets on the counter top or table.

Plastic trash bags, plastic coated freezer paper, plastic wrap, plastic soda bottles... at least with the soda the plastic is safer than the contents. 😂 I also wonder about that store-bought bread that won't grow mold for weeks.

Hi! I've tried it, and it does work - just not quite as well. The stamp doesn't cut into the soap much, but the mica will stick. It seems to work better if the melt and pour soap is freshly unmolded.

You're welcome! Wax paper won't work because the lye in your soap batter will saponify the wax. It will stick to your soap and you'll end up cutting it off of your soap. It will do the same thing with the wax coated milk cartons. Freezer paper is PVC coated, which is a type of plastic making it ideal for lining soap molds.

Thank you! It can be those little details that make things so much easier. 😁

Yes, using a knife works but it's pretty difficult to get uniform cuts. I'm glad you found it helpful!

You're welcome!

It stays on until the soap gets used. Then it typically wears off within the first few uses.

You can swirl it as soon as you're done getting it all in the mold, unless you want more texture. Then, just let it set up a little bit before swirling... maybe 5 to 10 minutes depending on how fast the recipe sets up.

Great question! Yes, you can use trim fat, but the quality of your finished soap will be different. It will probably be softer, depending on your recipe and the percentage of beef fat used.

using 50% tallow, 22.6% coconut oil and 22.6% olive with a 6% superfat and 33% lye concentration @@SoapAuthority

@@user-uw1el2sw5i That's a lot of tallow, so it's way more likely to be a really soft bar. The coconut and olive oil don't make super-hard bar either. If it had palm oil, that would help. You can always try a small batch to see how it goes. That way you'll know for sure.

gotcha! I have suet rendered so will work with that since I need, need some soap but will experiment with the other kind later. Thank you! @@SoapAuthority

@@user-uw1el2sw5i You're welcome! 😁

Great tip! Thanks!!

Awesome!!! It's so simple and cheap. I hope everything goes well with your project!

@@SoapAuthority it came last night so you can bet I saved this video! Just perfect!

You can do that if you want to.

I haven't used that type of paper, so I can't say for sure. If you do try that, be extra careful in case it leaks and be prepared to cut it off your soap if it sticks.

I wouldn't use foil paper. Since there is active lye in soap when it's first poured into the mold, it will have a dangerous chemical reaction to the aluminum.

The recipe I used was 47 ounces, so almost 3 lbs.

@@SoapAuthority Thank you very much! I appreciate it!

❤️

Yay!! It's definitely worth it. 😁

Yeah, trying to freehand cut really can be frustrating!

For these I used black raspberry vanilla fragrance oil. That one slows down trace a little bit giving more time to work with the soap and no discoloration.

I don't like to use water as a percentage of oils, and I don't recall my exact water to lye ratio on this one. As long as you never put in less water weight than what you're lye weight is, your should be OK. I reduce my water just enough to help prevent soda ash. Lots of things affect how fast your soap comes to trace and thickens: temperature, water amount, types of oils/butters, additives, fragrance and so on. Castor oil in a recipe speeds up trace, lard slows it down. Definitely try a smaller batch first! 😁

Ok, interesting. I did not not know that about water and that adding less helps with soda ash. Thank you for the info!

@@sarahm1195 You are welcome! 😁

I'm so glad to hear that! I hope your soap turns out great! Wishing you the best. 👏🏻

That's a great idea! I'll keep that in mind for future videos.

@@SoapAuthority thanks for the response and sharing. I saw your blog, And I am still confused for calculation. I have plan to sell wholesale, my total of my tools, ingredients of my soap, labor it will be reach cost $5 if I doble it, i don't thinks for wholesale they going to buy. pls! thank you for helping and sharing. Happy thanksgiving

@@MichelleSluss-or9uc A great book that goes into detail on all of this is "How to Wholesale your Handcrafted Soap" by Benjamin Aaron. It covers a lot of the calculations and how to get your costs down.

Okay, thanks. I'll wait your video how you calculate to price your soap. Oh, did you double your cost of packaging? Thanks again. I'll try to watch all your video, I'm your new subscriber

Awesome! I'm glad to hear it!

You are welcome! I'm so glad it was helpful!

I'm glad you found this helpful! How exciting to be moving into selling your soap! 😁

It's held up just fine. Yes, you absolutely can change the wire if it breaks. You just order replacement wires for a few dollars. There's a little screw on the handle that you loosen to do the replacement.